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A heat wave in parts of the South and Mississippi Valley is peaking and a new one is building in the West on Friday, putting more than 70 million people in those areas under heat alerts ahead of the holiday weekend.

In the mid- to lower Mississippi River Valley and the Deep South, temperatures on Friday will again near or top 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

Memphis and Nashville, Tennessee; Birmingham, Alabama; Little Rock, Arkansas; and New Orleans are under excessive heat warnings, as heat and humidity may combine to make temperatures feel like 105 to 115 degrees.

This continues distressing, deadly heat that parts of the South has experienced for days. Eleven people died in recent days due to heat-related illnesses in Texas’ Webb County, which includes Laredo, and at least two people died from the heat in Louisiana’s Caddo Parish this month, officials said.

Parts of Texas have sweltered under triple-digit temperatures for more than two weeks – but the state is seeing signs of relief. Dallas was not under any heat alert Friday morning as temperatures there dip to more typical summer values.

“Although a few locations across Central and East Texas may reach advisory criteria, the prevalence of 105 heat indices will be far less widespread, and our protracted stretch of advisories/warnings for heat will come to an end,” the National Weather Service office in Dallas said.

Heat across the rest of the South is expected to follow a similar pattern to Dallas, with slight relief slowly occurring over the holiday weekend.

“An increase in showers and thunderstorms this weekend into next week during peak heating will bring some relief from the heat as the upper-level ridge weakens slightly across the region,” the National Weather Service office in Memphis said.

As parts of the South begin to see some relief, heat in the West is building.

Millions across Las Vegas and Phoenix will be under excessive-heat warnings beginning Saturday, with temperatures projected to soar above 110 degrees for both locations this weekend. And many parts of California are under excessive-heat warnings or heat advisories.

“Ridge of high pressure will quickly build across California and Nevada … . Looks like both our consecutive days below 100 stretch and latest date to reach 100 in the calendar year will come to an end tomorrow (Friday),” the National Weather Service office in Las Vegas said.

“This heat should be taken seriously and precautions need to be taken to prevent heat-related illnesses,” that office warned. “Avoid outdoor activity during the hottest parts of the day (10 a.m. – 4 p.m.), drink extra water, take breaks in cool or shady locations, and wear light colored, light weight clothing.”

More than 600 people in the US are killed by extreme heat every year, according to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

As human-induced climate change forces temperatures to rise around the globe, officials urge people to take safety precautions during heat waves, including staying hydrated, avoiding leaving pets and kids in cars unattended and finding cool, indoor spaces to wait out the high temperatures.

This post appeared first on cnn.com

“Goodbye, Kai Tak, and thank you.”

It’s been 25 years since Richard Siegel, Hong Kong’s then-director of civil aviation, bid farewell and turned off the lights at Hong Kong Kai Tak International Airport.

On July 6, 1998, the city’s main air hub closed its doors, moving services to the bigger and swankier new Hong Kong International Airport in Chek Lap Kok.

The retired facility was rechristened as Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, the largest cruise terminal in town, in 2013.

The 25-year-old “new” airport has pulled off numerous achievements – it’s frequently named one of the top five airports in the world. It’s a repeat winner of Skytrax’s World’s Best Airport Dining award. It’s been the world’s largest cargo airport every year since 2010, except for 2020.

Yet fond memories remain for those who had a chance to fly through the old Kai Tak, or simply witness the remarkable airplane landings that made it famous.

One of the most difficult airports in the world

Before its closure in 1998, Kai Tak (the first recorded flight from the site took place in 1925) was regarded as one of the most difficult airports in the world for pilots to fly in and out of.

As it sat in the middle of Kowloon City, with a runway protruding into the sea, landing in Kai Tak was a hair-raising event even for experienced pilots.

Former Cathay Pacific Airways’ general manager of operations and now-pilot instructor Russell Davie has more than 30 years of flying experience.

He remembers Kai Tak fondly.

Daryl Chapman, a teacher and aviation photographer from Britain who has lived in Hong Kong since 1987, spent countless hours photographing the amazing scenes of large aircraft swooping in over the Hong Kong skyline. (See a gallery of his work above.)

“Kai Tak was very different to most international airports because it was right in the city,” recalls Chapman. “Lion Rock (a prominent hill in Hong Kong) blocks the standard straight-in approach; thus planes had to make that special turn over Kowloon City while landing on runway 13.”

“This was quite a challenge, especially in strong wind conditions,” Davie says. “As Cathay pilots, we had plenty of practice and became very adept at flying the approach.

“The approach was quite a challenge for pilots from other airlines, especially in more demanding flying conditions, as they might only come to Kai Tak once a year.”

Scariest moment: ‘We never saw the actual plane!’

Chapman recalls watching flights landing at Kai Tak during those “demanding flying conditions.”

“Being at the Kai Tak car park watching airplanes land in heavy rain ccould be very worrying,” he says. “The pilots could not see the runway, and landing over Kowloon, you had to be visual with the runway.

“Some (pilots) seemed to wait a little longer than others before they aborted the landing and went around for another go. Some would appear out of the low clouds on the approach path, then power up and vanish back into the clouds.”

The scariest memory for Chapman was the landing of an Air France 747-200 freighter contending with an extremely low ceiling.

“We could hear it coming but saw no sign of the landing lights. It was dark,” he says. “It got louder and louder; then you could see the glow of the red beacon under the plane. He overshot the turn and went right over the car park and control tower as he powered up and went around for another try.”

“That was very loud and worrying, as we never saw the actual plane!”

Fond memories of Kai Tak

Although the much larger and more modern Hong Kong International Airport (which opened in July 1998) is considered one of the best airports in the world, Kai Tak is still missed in some quarters.

It served Hong Kong for 73 years and was something of a city symbol, known to travelers worldwide.

“I have very fond memories of Kai Tak,” Davie said. “When I first joined Cathay Pacific, I spent many happy hours walking around Kowloon City every time I had a visitor in town, watching the aircraft fly low over the houses and shops.

“The approach looked really amazing from the ground, and also as a passenger, especially if you were seated on the right-hand side of the aircraft.”

Davie’s favorite route was arriving from Japan or Taiwan, northeast of Hong Kong.

“This allowed the pilot to fly the aircraft initially along the East Lamma shipping channel before turning around the end of Hong Kong Island, past Green Island, and heading toward the Checkerboard to make the final approach,” he remembers.

“Passengers lucky enough to have a window seat had a fantastic view of the south side of Hong Kong Island, then Central and the harbor before landing over Kowloon.”

This post appeared first on cnn.com

He caused shockwaves around the world when he was filmed apparently carving his name into a wall of Rome’s 2,000-year-old Colosseum – and grinning when he realized he was caught on camera.

Now, he’s likely to be in shock himself.

The visitor who this week allegedly scratched “Ivan+Hayley 23” on a brick wall of one of the world’s most precious buildings, has been identified, according to Italy’s culture minister.

And after a spate of Americans trashing Italian heritage sites last year, some readers will be relieved to know that this time, the suspect isn’t from the US – he’s from the UK.

Culture Minister Gennaro Sangiuliano tweeted Thursday that the Carabinieri, a military police force, had “identified the person presumed to be responsible for the uncivilized and absurd act committed at the Colosseum.”

“An act that offended everyone across the globe who appreciate the value of archaeology, of monuments and of history,” he added.

His tweet confirmed that “Ivan and Hayley” are thought to be the names of the tourist and his girlfriend, who was filmed watching on as he carved their names.

In a second tweet, Sangiuliano suggested that the case will go to trial.

Threat of prison

“I hope that justice will take its course, applying the law rigorously,” he wrote.

“If it comes to trial, the Ministry of Culture will appear as a plaintiff.”

1/2 Grato all’Arma dei @_Carabinieri_ per aver prontamente individuato il presunto responsabile del gesto incivile quanto assurdo commesso al #Colosseo. Un atto che ha offeso tutti coloro che nel mondo intero apprezzano il valore dell’archeologia, dei monumenti e della storia. pic.twitter.com/k2apyx026A

— Gennaro Sangiuliano (@g_sangiuliano) June 29, 2023

If convicted of a crime, the man could face a fine of at least 15,000 euros ($16,360) or up to five years in prison, according to Italian news agency Ansa.

Police “identified the main suspect through traditional investigations and photographic comparison,” they wrote.

“The carabinieri have confirmed that that it is a couple, a man and a woman, resident in England.

“It should be noted that proceedings are at the preliminary investigation stage so the suspect must be considered innocent until any final [court] ruling.”

Sangiuliano added in a statement that a government bill that would “make those who outrage our heritage answer for it personally” is currently passing through parliament. The bill would hold vandals responsible “including in terms of assets,” he said.

“People who cause damage must pay.”

Tourists vandalizing the Colosseum is sadly nothing new. In 2020, an Irish tourist was reported to the police for allegedly carving his initials into a wall.

Last August, an American couple were caught carving their initials into the Arch of Augustus, a 2,000-year-old monument beside the Colosseum.

This post appeared first on cnn.com

Caroline Wozniacki, a former world No. 1 and the 2018 Australian Open champion, has announced she’s returning to tennis.

Wozniacki, now 32, had retired from the sport following the 2020 Australian Open after a 15-year career, winning 30 singles titles. She and her husband, former NBA player David Lee, have two children.

“Over these past three years away from the game I got to make up for lost time with my family, I became a mother and now have two beautiful children I am so grateful for,” Wozniacki said in an Instagram post.

“But I still have goals I want to accomplish. I want to show my kids that you can pursue your dreams no matter your age or role. We decided as a family it’s time. I’m coming back to play and I can’t wait!”

In a first-person piece for Vogue, Wozniacki said she felt in late 2022 that she had been hitting the ball better than she had ever been and decided she “had to get back out there.”

“So I’m going to play the US Open,” Wozniacki said in the Vogue story. “There’s just an electric atmosphere in New York that I can’t get enough of, and I’ve played so well there for years and years.

“Also, David was a New York Knick for five seasons – we both love it there. I’ll start out playing in Montreal just to get back into the groove, and then we’ll all head to New York. After that, I’ll have a couple of months to prepare for Australia, and we’ll take it from there. The Paris Olympics are definitely a goal too.

“How long will I be able to play at my highest level – a year, two years, three years? I don’t know. But I know that five years from now, when the kids are in school, it will be too late. I’m not going to make any bold predictions – but if I didn’t believe in myself, I wouldn’t be doing this: I’m too competitive to just show up and not feel like I’m going to be one of the best players out there.”

The US Tennis Association (USTA) announced on Thursday that it will be giving Wozniacki a wild card into the women’s singles main draw of the this year’s US Open.

The Danish star also referenced playing with rheumatoid arthritis (RA), which she was diagnosed with in 2018, in the Vogue story.

“Of course, with my RA, I’ve been paying careful attention to how my body is reacting. And, honestly? So far, so good,” Wozniacki said. “The long break seems to have done wonders in terms of recovery, and mentally, I’m fresh. I’m not putting as much pressure on myself, but at the same time I know when I’m out there, I’m going to be fighting.”

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Inter Miami chief soccer officer and sporting director Chris Henderson said that “terms are agreed” between the club and Argentinian forward Lionel Messi.

Earlier this month, in an interview posted by Spanish outlets SPORT and Mundo Deportivo, Messi announced his decision to leave Paris Saint-Germain (PSG) for Major League Soccer (MLS).

At the time, the 36-year-old said that the deal wasn’t completed “one hundred percent,” and on Thursday Henderson provided an update on the transfer.

“With regard to Leo, terms are agreed, but we are working on the paperwork with Major League Soccer,” Henderson, who was at an introductory press conference for new manager Tata Martino, told reporters.

“Those are going to take time to finish, but we hope that there’s a time in mid-, late-July that he’s ready to go. That’s just going to be up to how he finishes all the paperwork.”

Messi and Martino have a previous connection. Both worked together with the Argentina national team, reaching the final of the 2015 Copa América in Chile and the 2016 United States Centennial Cup. They also coincided while at Barcelona during the 2013-2014 season.

Last week, the Miami Herald reported that Messi, a World Cup winner with Argentina last year, is expected to make his Inter Miami debut on July 21.

Regarded as one of the sport’s greatest ever players, Messi spent 17 trophy-laden seasons with Barcelona before moving to PSG for two years.

His influence on soccer in the United States is already being felt with ticket prices for Inter Miami matches soaring by more than 1,000% in the minutes after the move to MLS was first reported.

This post appeared first on cnn.com

Former NFL quarterback Ryan Mallett died Tuesday in an apparent drowning off a Florida Panhandle beach, a county sheriff’s office said.

First responders were called to a beach in Destin around 2:12 p.m. amid reports people in the water near a sandbar were struggling to make it to shore, the Okaloosa County agency said in a news release. Mallett, 35, went underwater and was not breathing when lifeguards pulled him out, the sheriff’s office said. He died at a hospital, it added.

Authorities have been warning beachgoers as rip currents have claimed at least 11 lives in two weeks along the Gulf Coast. An alert early Tuesday predicted: “Southwest to west winds today will create a high risk of rip currents along Panhandle beaches,” according to the National Weather Service office in Tallahassee’s forecast update.

Yellow flags indicating “a medium hazard, moderate surf and/or currents” flew Tuesday along Destin beaches, though “there were no rip currents present in the area in which we responded to Ryan Mallett,” the Destin Fire Control District said Wednesday in a statement. Mallett’s death “seems to be just a tragic accident and not something to do with the conditions of the surf or tides or currents,” Okaloosa County Sheriff Eric Aden said.

Casualties this month tied to rip currents have been recorded between Fort Morgan, Alabama, and Panama City Beach, Florida – a zone that includes Destin.

A rip current is “a relatively small-scale surf-zone current” that forms as waves disperse across the beach, trapping water between the beach and a sandbar or other feature so it “converges into a narrow, river-like channel moving away from the shore at high speed,” according to the National Weather Service. While it won’t pull someone underwater, a rip current can pull even the strongest swimmer away from the beach beyond breaking waves.

The 10-year average for US rip current fatalities is 71, weather service data shows. They were the third-leading cause of weather fatalities from 2013 to 2023, data shows, killing on average more people than lightning, tornadoes or hurricanes.

‘We lost a great man’ in Mallett, Brady says

Mallett was a star with the Arkansas Razorbacks before he was drafted in 2011 in the third round by the New England Patriots, the NFL said. He spent seven years in the NFL with the Patriots, Houston Texans and Baltimore Ravens. He played in 21 games, went 3-5 as a starter, and compiled 1,835 passing yards, nine touchdown passes and 10 interceptions, the NFL said. His career ended in 2017.

“The New England Patriots are deeply saddened to learn of the sudden and unexpected passing of former quarterback Ryan Mallett,” the team said on Twitter. “Our thoughts are with the Mallett family, his former teammates and all who are mourning his loss.”

NFL star Tom Brady shared online a photo of himself and former teammate Mallett on the field. “We lost a great man. Thank you for everything Ryan,” Brady wrote on Instagram. “Praying for the Mallett family and all their loved ones tonight.”

Mallett was the head football coach for the White Hall High School Bulldogs in White Hall, Arkansas, where he also taught physical education and health, according to the district’s website. “It is with great sadness that we share the loss of Coach Ryan Mallett,” the district said. “Coach Mallett was a beloved coach and educator. We ask that you remember his family, team, students, fellow coaches, and the White Hall School District staff in your prayers.”

This story has been updated to reflect new information from the sheriff’s and fire control officials about whether rip currents were a factor in Mallett’s death.

This post appeared first on cnn.com

A deadly heat wave will worsen in parts of the South today, but relief from the most extreme, record-breaking temperatures arrives in Texas and is on the horizon elsewhere.

Parts of Texas have baked in triple-digit heat for more than two weeks, but today is the first day since mid-June that the state isn’t expected to set some kind of record.

Still, the concept of “relief” is relative for temperatures that climbed as high as 119 degrees last week.

Temperatures in Laredo, where heat has killed 11 people, have been in the triple digits every day for nearly three weeks. It will be nearly 10 degrees cooler there through the weekend, but temperatures are still forecast to top 100 degrees.

This image shows the heat index forecast for Thursday, June 29, 2023 vs Monday, July 3, 2023. While temperatures will remain hot, they are starting to trend down.

Other places across South Texas will finally catch a break from that kind of heat by the weekend.

San Angelo could have its coolest day since June 16 and hit the 90s on Saturday, a feat possible across other portions of southern Texas.

“Temperatures will still be hot, but considering we’ve seen multiple days above 110 recently, highs in the 90s will feel cooler,” forecasters at the National Weather Service office in San Angelo said.

While Texas temperatures fall, the heat will worsen elsewhere.

Southeast to swelter as heat dome settles in

Just four days later, on June 25, a 49-year-old man collapsed while walking in the 95-plus degree heat in Shreveport and later died. Both had preexisting conditions, the coroner said, which made them more vulnerable to heat illness.

Temperatures will climb above 100 degrees in Shreveport and elsewhere across the Southeast as the “heat dome” – a persistent ridge of high pressure – expands into the region.

Nearly 20 record highs across the region could be broken over the next two days.

Read more: What is a heat dome?

Brutal humidity will combine with record high temperatures to crank up heat index values and make it feel like 110 to 115 degrees in places like Memphis, where nearly 25 thousand people are still without power after powerful storms ripped through the area over the weekend.

Overnight temperatures will also stay warm, even in Texas. More than 100 record high minimum temperatures could fall during the next five days.

Relief will take a little longer for areas in the Southeast. Temperatures will stay hot through the weekend, then finally fall by early next week. Temperatures will still be hot in the 90s, but cooler compared to the triple digits happening now.

Roughly 90 million people are under heat alerts across the US, and it’s not just in the South. A chunk of that population is in the West.

‘First widespread heatwave of the season’ in the West

Heat alerts now cover portions of New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California and Oregon as temperatures are expected to soar above 100 degrees for many locations through the weekend and into early next week. Temperatures will get close to 120 degrees across Central Arizona and the California deserts.

A significant heatwave is predicted to impact the San Joaquin Valley this weekend. Here are probabilities (70 percent or greater) of afternoon high temperatures expected to reach or exceed 105 degrees on Saturday for select locations across the valley. #CAwx pic.twitter.com/F9tZAxmwLf

— NWS Hanford (@NWSHanford) June 28, 2023

For the valleys of California, temperatures are forecast to hit 110 degrees, as the “region’s first widespread heatwave of the season” arrives, the National Weather Service in Sacramento said.

That heat will also finally arrive in Las Vegas, which has gone a record-breaking 292 consecutive days without reaching 100 degrees, but is forecast to hit 100 today, and shoot up to 110 degrees by Sunday and beyond.

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A powerful thunderstorm complex was racing across the Midwest Thursday afternoon, blowing through the harmful smoke from Canada’s wildfires and clearing the air in its wake.

The storm – referred to as a bow echo because of its arc-like appearance on radar – has a history of producing wind gusts close to 90 mph and has knocked the power out for thousands.

A wind gust of 88 mph was reported in western Illinois early Thursday afternoon. More than 200,000 customers were without power in Iowa, Illinois and Indiana, poweroutage.us reported.

A severe thunderstorm watch was in effect Thursday afternoon in Illinois and parts of Indiana ahead of the system.

The storm was expected to move east through Illinois, Indiana and possibly into Kentucky, then dissipate Thursday evening. It will move across this region over the next several hours, bringing wind gusts that could be stronger than hurricane-force – 74 mph – at times.

The Storm Prediction Center was forecasting a level 4 out of 5 risk for damaging winds up to 90 mph, along with large hail and a few tornadoes for nearly 2 million people across Central Illinois.

.@NOAA’s #GOESEast is watching over portions of the Midwest this afternoon where there’s an #EnhancedRisk and #ModerateRisk for #severe weather. Damaging winds, large #hail, and a few #tornadoes will be possible through this evening.

Latest: https://t.co/aMiTW5ECvz pic.twitter.com/sRG6GjepJ7

— NOAA Satellites (@NOAASatellites) June 29, 2023

Satellite imagery shared on social media by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration showed lightning flashing in the dangerous storm over Illinois, along with a separate storm system moving south through Kentucky and Tennessee.

The bow-echo thunderstorm complex appeared to meet the definition of a derecho: a destructive arc of thunderstorms characterized by dangerous, widespread winds. The straight-line winds in these weather phenomena can be just as devastating as tornadoes.

A derecho must maintain a path of wind damage that is 60 miles wide and 400 miles long, while also producing wind gusts of 58 mph or greater along most of its length.

As the storm plowed through Illinois, it cleared out some of the harmful wildfire smoke that has prompted air quality alerts for more than a third of the US population this week. Air pollution readings for small particulate matter – or PM 2.5, a hazardous air pollutant – dropped significantly behind the storm.

The air quality index in Champaign, Illinois, dropped from around 180, or “unhealthy,” on Thursday morning to just 1 after the storm blew through.

Map: Track air quality across the US

The worst air pollution on Thursday was centered over Chicago, Detroit, Indianapolis and Cleveland. Some improvement in air quality was expected Friday, and Thursday’s windy storms will help ease the pollution.

The smoke is pouring into the US from Canada, which is experiencing its worst wildfire season on record. Hundreds of fires are burning there, according to the Canadian Interagency Forest Fire Centre, and parts of Canada, too, are experiencing unhealthy air quality from the fires, according to data from IQair.

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The fact that there are more than 100 different types of kimchi should tell you something about the pride Koreans have in their food.

Korean cuisine has evolved over time because of cultural changes, but it remains a major aspect of the national identity.

Here are 39 dishes that are essential to the Korean heart, soul and digestive tract.

Hangover stew (해장국)

Given South Korea’s dedicated drinking culture, it’s not surprising that its hangover-curing culture is equally as developed, from pre-drinking drinks to post-drinking drinks to a glorious array of spicy and steamy stews and soups.

Made from a beef broth, with cabbage, bean sprouts, radish and chunks of congealed ox blood, the deeply satisfying taste does wonders to kick-start your sluggish brain in the morning.

Kimchi (김치)

Dating to the Silla Dynasty (around 2,000 years ago), kimchi is the beloved spicy sidekick at every Korean table. It’s made by salting and preserving fermented cabbage in a bed of red chilli pepper, garlic, ginger and scallion.

Feeling adventurous? Exchange your regular red cabbage kimchi for ggakdugi (chopped radish kimchi), a popular side at gimbap restaurants.

Yeolmumul kimchi is a less spicy kimchi made with young radish stalks floating in a tangy soup.

Soft Tofu Stew (순두부찌개)

Soft tofu, clams and an egg in spicy broth? This popular stew is a classic example of unexpected flavor combinations yielding delightful sensations.

The soft tofu – which breaks into fluffy chunks in the stew – holds the flavor of the clam and serves as a relief from the overall spiciness.

Proper sundubu-jjigae comes in a traditional earthenware pot designed to retain heat. The egg is cracked into the stew after serving, and cooks inside the bowl.

Samgyeopsal (삼겹살)

Samgyeopsal is the Korean word for pork belly, and it’s a staple at what many Westerners know simply as Korean BBQ restaurants.

The best part of eating in a samgyeopsal restaurant is the atmosphere – a rollicking party punctuated by soju shots, pork strips sizzling on a grill and shouts for “one more serving, please!”

Served with lettuce, perilla leaves, sliced onions and raw garlic, the meat is smudged in ssamjang (a mix of soybean paste called ‘doenjang’ and chili paste called ‘gochujang’) or salt and pepper in sesame oil.

Jjajangmyeon (짜장면)

Although originally a Chinese dish, Koreans have taken the noodles and created a thicker, sweeter version that holds only a vague resemblance to its Chinese predecessor. (Think of New Yorkers and the wonders they’ve done with pizza.)

It would not be an understatement to say Korean diets would not be the same without this dish – most Koreans eat it regularly, and have their favorite jjajangmyeon delivery shop on speed dial.

Chimaek (치맥)

Chimaek, short for “chicken, maekju (beer)” is actually not a dish, but an institution. This glorious pairing features two surprisingly mundane foods: fried chicken and beer.

Neither half, chicken nor beer, is particularly remarkable on its own. But their popularity as a joint entity demonstrates a glorious combination devoured by millions of Koreans every weekend.

Instant noodles (라면)

Anyone can follow the directions on the back of the ramyeon package to boil water and sprinkle in the spice packet, but connoisseurs will add extras like canned tuna, eggs, and cheese for enhanced flavor.

Kimchi Stew (김치찌개)

A lesser-known fact about kimchi is its versatility as an ingredient in a whole slew of derivative dishes, which comprise a category of their own.

In kimchi-jjigae, red cabbage kimchi is chopped, sauteed in oil, and cooked with tofu, pork (sometimes tuna), and other vegetables.

Despite the stew’s debt to kimchi, you know it has come into its own when it’s served with kimchi as a side dish.

Army Stew (부대찌개)

This hodgepodge stew of sausages, Spam, American cheese, instant noodles, tteok, and assorted vegetables dates back to the aftermath of the Korean War.

Because meat was scarce, cooks found creative replacements in the surplus foods from the American army base stationed in Seoul, hence the stew’s name.

Although meat has since then become plentiful, a buddae jjigae without Spam is unimaginable.

Soy sauce crab (간장게장)

Ganjang gejang, or crab marinated in soy sauce, can be so addictive that it’s often affectionately called “rice thief,” the joke being that you keep eating more rice just so that you can have more gejang since it’s just that good.

Slightly tangy, tantalizingly bitter, pungent and cold, the taste may come as a shock for first-timers. But among South Koreans, gejang has been carving out a niche for itself as more of a centerpiece than a sideshow to other seafoods.

Tteokbokki (떡볶이)

This iconic red-orange street food is so popular there’s an entire part of Seoul just devoted to the steamed and sliced rice cakes (tteok), cooked with fish cakes (oden) and scallions in a sweet and spicy sauce made of chili paste.

Chefs have been known to put all sorts of things inside the sauce, from the black soybean paste to plain old ketchup. Call us masochists, but one thing is certain: the more pepper, the better.

Gopchang (곱창)

Gopchang refers to the small intestines from pork or cattle, which, chopped into rounded sections, can be cooked into soups, stir-fried, or grilled.

Grilled, gopchang is yet another important aspect of Korean barbecue culture. Chewy without being rubbery, it’s a bit more festive than samgyeopsal, although it’s still a staunchly earthy food.

And as most office workers in South Korea can tell you, it’s divine with soju.

Samgyetang (삼계탕)

Continuing along the masochistic strain, Koreans have a saying that goes, “fight heat with heat.” What that means is they love to eat boiling hot dishes on the hottest summer days.

The most representative of these is samgyetang, a thick, glutinous soup with a whole stuffed chicken floating in its boiling depths.

The cooking process tones down the ginseng’s signature bitterness and leaves an oddly appealing, aromatic flavor in its stead – a flavor that permeates an entire bird boiled down to a juicy softness.

Bibimbap (비빔밥)

This Korean lunch-in-a-bowl mixes together a simple salad of rice, mixed vegetables, rice, beef, and egg, with sesame oil and a dollop of chili paste for seasoning.

Although Korean kings from yesteryear would probably be shocked at how the royal dish has become so ingrained into the palate of the masses, we love how cheaply and quickly we can devour our favorite lunch.

Gimbap (김밥)

The process of making gimbap resembles the Italian glasswork technique of millefiori, and indeed, the finished gimbap often looks too pretty too eat.

Sauteed vegetables, ground beef, sweet pickled radish, and rice, rolled and tightly wrapped in a sheet of laver seaweed (gim), and then sliced into bite-sized circles.

Bingsu (빙수)

In this delectable summer dessert, sweetened red beans (pat) and tteok are served on a bed of shaved ice (bingsu). Variations will include condensed milk, misutgaru, syrup, ice cream, and corn flakes.

Then there are, of course, the variations on the bingsu, where the pat is sometimes entirely replaced by ice cream or fruit.

Classic patbingsu, however, is too beloved to lose ground to the newcomers – come summer, every bakery and fast food restaurant in Seoul will have patbingsu on its dessert menu.

Gamjatang (감자탕)

Gamja in Korean means potato, but in the case of this hearty dish, it translates to pork bone soup.

Most gamjatang places are open 24 hours, because South Koreans tend to crave this stew in the early hours of the morning as an alternative to hangover stew.

This hearty dish features potatoes (gamja), scallions, ground perilla seed, and bits of pork cooked in a pork bone broth. The real appeal of this stew lies in the unique taste of the perilla seed, which is perhaps more important to the flavor than the meat.

Haemul Pajeon (해물파전)

Crunchy and filling, Korean pancake tastes best when it comes studded with shellfish, cuttlefish, and other varieties of seafood, to make haemul (seafood) pajeon.

And with its traditional companion of Korean rice wine, makgeolli, pajeon makes the perfect meal for a rainy day.

Jjambbong (짬뽕)

This dish is the soupier, spicier counterpart to jjajangmyeon and together they form the core of Korean Chinese home delivery cuisine.

But although noodles dominate in terms of sheer quantity, the onions and chili oil that flavor the soup are what really demand your attention. With copious amounts of chili oil-saturated onions and other vegetables on top of the noodles, few are able to finish this dish in its entirety, but many try.

Sundae (순대)

Another street food, sundae is a type of sausage, similar in content to blood pudding, with roots in Mongolian cuisine. “Real” sundae is pig intestine with a stuffing of cellophane noodles, vegetables, and meat, but even if you eat the street vendor version, which uses a synthetic replacement for the pig intestine, you will still be able to enjoy the lungs and liver on the side. Yum.

Kongguksu (콩국수)

This seasonal dish might taste bland to some, but once you learn to enjoy the subtle flavor of the bean, you will acquire a taste for this cold, creamy, textured noodle dish that no other dish will be able to satisfy in the summer.

And if the pale, spring green julienne cucumbers placed on the hand-ground, snow-white soybean doesn’t tip you off, kongguksu is a highly nutritious dish that also happens to be vegetarian-friendly.

Kalguksu (칼국수)

Bad kalguksu can be very bad. But good kalguksu is divine.

Although most kalguksu places will add mushrooms, sliced pumpkin, and seafood or chicken to the basic ingredients of noodles and broth, at the end of the day kalguksu is about the pleasure of the plain.

Ox Bone Soup (설렁탕)

This ox bone soup is easily recognizable by its milky white color and sparse ingredients. At most, seolleongtang broth will contain noodles, finely chopped scallions, and a few strips of meat.

Yet for such a frugal investment, the results are rewarding. There is nothing like a steaming bowl of seolleongtang on a cold winter day, salted and peppered to your taste, and complemented by nothing more than rice and kkakdugi kimchi.

Tteokguk (떡국)

Originally tteokguk was strictly eaten on the first day of the Lunar New Year to signify good luck and the gaining of another year in age. The custom makes more sense if you think in Korean: idiomatically, growing a year older is expressed as “eating another year.”

But this dish of oval rice cake slices, egg, dried laver seaweed, and occasionally dumplings in a meat-based broth is now eaten all year round, regardless of age or season.

Doenjang jjigae (된장찌개)

This humble, instantly recognizable stew is one of Korea’s most beloved foods.

The ingredients are simple: doenjang, tofu, mushrooms, green peppers, scallions, and an anchovy or two for added flavor. Add rice and kimchi on the side and you have a meal – no other side dishes necessary.

While its distinctive piquancy might throw some off, that very taste is what keeps it on the South Korean table week after week.

Galbi (갈비)

Galbi, which means “rib,” can technically come from pork and even chicken, but when you just say “galbi” sans modifiers, you’re talking about thick slabs of meat marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, chopped garlic, and sugar and grilled over a proper fire.

Of course, beef galbi can be used to make soup (galbitang) and steamed galbi (galbijjim). But these dishes, while excellent in their own right, are overshadowed by their grilled leader.

Chuncheon dakgalbi (춘천 닭갈비)

On the other end of the galbi spectrum is the low-budget student favorite Chuncheon dakgalbi.

Chuncheon is a city in Gangwon province, which developed its own unique method of grilling marinated chicken.

In this dish, chunks of chicken are marinated in a sauce of chili paste and other spices, and stir-fried in a large pan with tteok, cabbage, carrots and slices of sweet potato.

Because of the tendency of the red dakgalbi sauce to splatter, it’s common to see many diners wearing aprons over their clothes as they cook and eat.

Bossam (보쌈)

As is frequently the case with many South Korean meat dishes, Bossam at its core is simple: steamed pork.

But key to this dish is that the steamed pork is sliced into squares slightly larger than a bite, lovingly wrapped in a leaf of lettuce, perilla, or kimchi, and daubed with a dipping sauce. There are two traditional options: ssamjang, made of chili paste and soybean paste (doenjang), or saeujeot, a painfully salty pink sauce made of tiny pickled shrimp.

Wrapping and dipping are essential.

Agujjim (아구찜)

Agujjim, also known as agwijjim, is a seafood dish that consists of anglerfish braised on a bed of dropwort and bean sprout. It is as spicy as it looks: the entire dish is a bright reddish color, from the chili powder, chili paste, and chili peppers used in the seasoning.

The white, firm flesh of the anglerfish, which is quite rightly called the “beef of the sea,” is meaty and filling. And the tangle of dropwort and bean sprout that make up the majority of the dish aren’t just there for decoration: the dropwort is tart and the bean sprouts crunchy.

Japchae (잡채)

Japchae, a side dish of cellophane noodles, pork, and assorted vegetables sauteed in soy sauce, makes its most frequent appearances at feasts and potlucks.

There are no precise rules governing the precise assortment of vegetables in japchae, but most recipes won’t stray far from the standard collection of mushrooms, carrots, spinach, onions, and leeks.

Dubu kimchi (두부김치)

This appropriate combination of blanched dubu (tofu), sauteed kimchi, and stir-fried pork is a threesome made in heaven. The dubu, which has the potential to be bland on its own, has the pork to add substance and the kimchi to add flavor.

Another stalwart companion to alcohol, especially at more traditional bars and restaurants, dubu kimchi makes soju almost palatable.

Hobakjuk (호박죽)

This viscous, yellow-orange juk, or porridge, gets its distinctive color and flavor from the pumpkin, its namesake and its main ingredient. The pumpkin is peeled, boiled, and blended with glutinous rice flour, and the result is a bowl of porridge so creamy, golden, and sweet that in some ways it seems more pudding than porridge.

Hobakjuk is often served as an appetizer to meals, or as a health food: it is supposedly beneficial to those suffering from intestinal problems. The specifics of medicinal science aside, it’s not difficult to imagine that this mellow, mildly flavored meal can heal.

Gyeranjjim (계란찜)

This side dish, in which an egg is beaten into a bowl, lightly salted and steamed into a spongy, pale yellow cake, is absolutely essential when eating spicy food.

Similar in consistency to soft tofu (sundubu), but with more flavor, gyeranjjim is sometimes made with diced mushrooms, carrots, zucchini, leeks, and sesame seeds sprinkled on top.

Naengmyeon (냉면)

In South Korea we wait for summer just so we can start eating naengmyeon every week. The cold buckwheat noodles are great as a lightweight lunch option or after Korean barbecue, as a way to cleanse the palate.

Mul naengmyeon, or “water” naengmyeon, hailing from North Korea’s Pyongyang, consists of buckwheat noodles in a tangy meat or kimchi broth, topped with slivers of radish, cucumber, and egg, and seasoned with vinegar and Korean mustard (gyeoja).

Bibim naengmyeon, or “mix” naengmyeon, generally contains the same ingredients, but minus the broth. The noodles are instead covered in a sauce made from chili paste.

Dotorimuk (도토리묵)

This light brown jello, made of acorn starch, is served cold, frequently with a topping of chopped leeks and soy sauce as a side dish, or as an ingredient in Dotorimuk salads and dotorimukbap (dotorimuk with rice).

Like tofu, dotorimuk, while nutritious and vegan-friendly, can taste bland on its own. The flavor, which is unique, can only be described as acorn – bitter rather than nutty. But although dotorimuk may be an acquired taste, most dotorimuk dishes have a host of appetizing spices and condiments to help the process along.

Mudfish Soup (추어탕)

This spicy soup has a consistency closer to that of stew. Although mashed and boiled to the point where it is unrecognizable, chueotang is named for the freshwater mudfish (chueo) that constitutes the main ingredient.

But the selling point of this soup is the coarse yet satisfying texture of the mudfish and the vegetables – mung bean sprouts, dried radish greens, sweet potato stems, and most of all the thin, delicate outer cabbage leaves.

Bulgogi (불고기)

If galbi represents Korean barbecue, then bulgogi’s playing field is Korean cuisine as a whole. This well-known sweet meat dish, which has existed in some form for over a thousand years, was haute cuisine during the Joseon Dynasty.

The dish is also a fusion favorite: bulgogi-flavored burgers are part of the menu at fast food franchise Lotteria, and there have also been sightings of other adaptations like the bulgogi panini.

Ppeongtwigi (뻥튀기)

If you’ve ever been lucky enough to get stuck in daytime Seoul traffic, you will see the ppeongtwigi sellers emerge from nowhere and park themselves in the center of the highway. Their fearlessness is a sure sign that your car won’t be budging for a while yet.

Ppeongtwiti is onomatopoeic. The ppeong represents the sound that rice makes as it pops, and there really isn’t much else to the snack but that – popping.

If you’re feeling tired of all the greasy, barbecue-flavored, chocolate-covered, and over-packaged snacks that most stores stock today, try a handful of this relatively Spartan treat. It’s unexpectedly addictive.

The best places to find it are at the local seller down the street.

Nakji bokkeum (낙지볶음)

In this enduring favorite, octopus is stir-fried with vegetables in a sauce of chili paste, chili powder, green peppers, and chili peppers – ingredients that would be spicy enough on their own, but which all congregate to create one extra fiery dish.

When it’s done right, the chewy, tender octopus swims in a thick, dark red, caramelized sauce, so good that you can ignore the fact that it sets your mouth aflame to keep eating.

Editor’s note: This article was previously published in 2012. It was reformatted and republished in 2023.

This post appeared first on cnn.com

In the hushed, ornate St James cathedral in the Armenian Quarter, one of Jerusalem’s most famous photographers Garo Nalbandian is at work, straddling a ladder as he photographs a massive Armenian carpet from above.

As his camera flash illuminates the hundreds of hanging lanterns and precious paintings on the walls, two assistants scurry around wearing only socks for the artifacts’ protection.

But Nalbandian is not only one of Jerusalem’s most sought after photographers. He’s also Armenian, a member of the dwindling Christian community still living in the Armenian quarter of Jerusalem.

A quarter he fears will soon be Armenian in name only.

Armenians first settled in Jerusalem over 1,600 years ago, with their community growing in the early 20th century as Armenians from other parts of the Ottoman Empire fled from genocide. One hundred years later, however, the Armenian presence in their quarter has shrunk significantly.

This property controversy comes as Christian Armenians have felt squeezed by Jewish extremists and the ongoing and worsening Israeli-Palestinian conflict.

Among the Jerusalem Old City’s four quarters, the Armenian is the smallest. But now Armenians say they’re facing an existential crisis that could be the beginning of the end of the Armenian presence in the Old City. And it’s being perpetrated, they allege, by their own religious leadership.

A deal has been signed by the Armenian Patriarchate that will hand up to 25% of the quarter to a commercial entity for a 99-year lease, according to lawyers working to stop the deal. According to the lawyers and residents, the reported intention is to build a luxury hotel on some of the land that is currently a parking lot, but is on prime real estate nestled just within the Old City walls.

Few have seen the contract itself, and those who have are not commenting publicly on how much the deal is worth.

The drama has pitted the Armenian community against its religious leader, the Armenian Patriarch Nourhan Manougian. Regular protests have been held, with Armenian residents and supporters creating a human chain around the part of the quarter allegedly part of the deal.

‘Nightmares every night’

Nalbandian’s centuries-old home, which he and his family have lived in for more than 50 years rented from the Armenian church, is part of the land transfer, he says.

Sitting in his living room with his wife and granddaughter, his own stunning photographs line the wall, as well as a massive painting of Jesus’ last supper, Nalbandian grows emotional as he describes what he fears is happening.

“I’m having nightmares every night,” he said. “Where am I going to live with my family, with my children. We are 11 people around, you know. They’re putting us into parts and we are losing our culture.”

Nalbandian and his family’s small compound is directly across from the Armenian convent and within the shadow of the Old City walls. A steady stream of tourists and priests pass the front door every day.

“I love it here. I like to be here, forever. It’s our homeland. It’s most important for me, as an Armenian to be next to the Armenian convent next to the school, next to our culture, clubs, everything between Armenians, you know, all the friends,” he said.

Nalbandian says they’ve been betrayed by their own leadership, who he also accuses of not being forthright. Nalbandian said when he went to the Patriarch’s office to inquire what happened, a secretary told him his house is included in the deal but that they are “working to bringing it back.” But he says he has yet to be shown the contract or a full map of what has been handed over.

“They are hiding the contracts. They’re hiding all the maps and everything. They’re not telling they’re selling they say they gave 99 years. Okay, you give 99 years. Show. Show us, we don’t know what our future,” Nalbandian said.

Yeretzian said the contract is with Xana Capital and its chairman Danny Rothman, and was signed in 2021 with the intent to “secure future financial stability for the patriarchate.”

In recent months Yeretsian left Jerusalem for the United States, at the request of the patriarch he says, his exit marred by angry protestors furious over the deal. Videos from the evening show Yeretsian leaving the Armenian quarter under Israeli police protection.

Yeretsian said he was acting on the Patriarch’s orders. “The patriarch is the ultimate authority,” he said. Yeretsian added he feels like he’s now being used a scapegoat.

But many of the residents say they don’t care who leased the land.

“It’s not important who bought it, I’m not blaming who bought it. I’m blaming why they sell it,” Nalbandian said. “This property is a property for all Armenians, all Armenians in the world.”

Taking action

Earlier this month a group of volunteer Armenian lawyers from Armenia and the United States arrived for a seven-day fact-finding mission to help understand the situation and suggest remedies. A full report on the situation is expected to be published in the coming days.

At a community meeting on Sunday, the lawyers said it’s not just some homes that are at risk: The Armenian heritage museum as well as the Armenian cemetery are “possibly threatened.”

Garo Ghazarian, an attorney from Los Angeles, told the community meeting the deal “is more than just about the use of commercial purposes.”

“The task and challenge for everyone, the Armenian Church, the community, the clubs and Armenian organizations alike, is to overcome all risks which threatens the integrity and the indivisibility of our community within the Old City of Jerusalem,” he said.

Alongside the fallout from the community the Palestinian Authority as well as Jordan, which oversees Christian and Muslim religious sites in Jerusalem, has withdrawn recognition of the patriarch as a result of the real estate deal.

A missing Patriarch

Last Sunday, a ceremony was held at St. James’ cathedral to install new Deacons. Typically, the Patriarch would attend such events, but he was not in attendance.

“We have rented it to the other company that is all. But about 99 years there. But we are doing our best to cancel it if we can,” he said.

Gharibian said he did “not know” why the land was leased in the first place but defended the Patriarch’s relative silence on the matter.

“We don’t answer to any, every question, every talking. Let them talk. Later we will see who is right. Because these people also have their personal trouble with the Convert, you know they want something for some reason, revenge, I don’t know,” he said. “The body is working about these things. Not everybody must know what they are doing. They will spoil it or destroy it what we are doing,” he said.

But even if the deal is canceled, the damage has been done.

“They don’t have a God. They have money,” Nalbandian said of the Patriarchate. “If they have one blood of Armenia, they don’t do this.”

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